Institution

Approach

Aeeding

Maintenance

How do I start?

If one was stuck on for the moment by the small Krabblern an aquarium has to go here and these matching accessories. In every zoo business are offered so-called "Nono Cubes" which were sketched especially for shrimps. To offers become the "Cubes" with Aufsetzleuchte, filter sure about shrimp and ground reason. Thus one is well prepared for the beginning, now one needs only plants, Deko like mangrove or Morkierholz and shrimps.

Which ground reason do I take?

There is a very big choice in ground reason (gravel, sand) for aquariums, indeed, one must be very careful with shrimps, because these animals react very sensitively to "copper". To make sure, one can take Zb. from special shrimps gravel or sand of "Dennerle" which is rather expensive, however. However, there are also more favorable Alternatieven which one can use easily. I use natural terracotta gravel and Quazsand from the property market. One can choose the ground reason height freely, about 4 cm are it in my case.

Terracotta physical gravel 1 - 4 mm with eBay, 30 kg - 29.50€	Quazsand "fire-dry" from the property market, 40 kg - 5.99€	Red Bee Sand, that there is with Logemännern or in the Shirakura shop 8 kg - 28.50€

Plant

Plants are not to be forgotten in a shrimp aquarium and play an importantly role. Shrimps love thick-planted aquariums. Feinfiedrige plants are recommendable like Zb. The mosses which one can bind up very well on stones or roots. The following plants are also suited well:

- Cabomba caroliniana
- Ceratopteris thalictroides
- Egeria densa
- Microsorum pteropus
- Cladophora aegagropila

One should be carefully with plants bought "Anew", because these mostly come from überdüngten market gardens and release the fertilizer again in the aquarium water. Hence, one should remove the "fertilizer cotton" carefully and shorten the roots something. Afterwards in a bucket approx. during 1 week water and every day change the water.

The finish phase

The finish phase lasted with me only one week. Many swear on 4 - 6 weeks. I could gain no bad experience with a one-week finish phase, however, I recommend the first two weeks to feed very economically and to pay attention regularly to the water values.

Shrimps warrants of apprehension

Red Bee	Scientific name: Caridina cf. cantonensis sp. "Red Bee" German name: Red Bee Zwerggarnele Origin: ? Size: male: 25mm     female: 30mm pH-Value: 6 to 7,5 (values around 6 are best) Whole hardness: 5 bis 15 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  1 bis 10 dH Temperature: 16 - 26°C (the best breeding temperature 24°C)
S/W Bee's shrimp	Scientific name: Caridina cf. cantonensis "Biene" German name: Bienengarnele Origin: Hongkong Size: male: 25mm     female: 30mm pH-Value: 6 to  7 (values around 6,5 are best) Whole hardness: 5 bis 16 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  1 bis 12 dH Temperature: 16 - 26°C (the best breeding temperature 23°C)
Yellow Fire	Scientific name: Neocaridina heteropoda var. yellow German name: Yellow Fire Zwerggarnele Origin: Japan Size: male: 30mm     female: 35mm pH-Value: 6 to 8 (values around 7,5 are best) Whole hardness: 6 bis 30 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  5 bis 20 dH Temperature: 16 - 26°C (the best breeding temperature 23°C)
Green midget shrimp	Scientific name: Caridina cf. Babaulti "green" German name: Giftgrüne oder Grüne Garnele Origin: Indien und Sri Lanka Size: male: 25mm     female: 30mm pH-Value: 6 to 8 (values around 7,5 are best) Whole hardness: 6 bis 20 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  5 bis 16 dH Temperature: 18 - 28°C (the best breeding temperature 24 - 26°C)
White Pearl	Scientific name: Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. White German name: "Weiss-Perlen" Zwerggarnele oder White Pearl Origin: ? Size: male: 20mm     female: 25mm pH-Value: 6 to 8 (values around 7 are best) Whole hardness: 6 bis 26 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  5 bis 16 dH Temperature: 5 - 28°C (the best breeding temperature 18 - 24°C)
Blue Pearl	Scientific name: Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. Blue German name: "Blue Pearl" Zwerggarnele Origin: ? Size: male: 20mm     female: 25mm pH-Value: 6 to 8 (values around 7 are best) Whole hardness: 6 bis 26 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  5 bis 16 dH Temperature: 5 - 28°C (the best breeding temperature 18 - 24°C)
Blue tiger's shrimp	Scientific name: Caridina cf.cantonensis sp. "Tiger blue " German name: Blaue Tigergarnele Origin: Asien Size: male: 25mm     female: 30mm pH-Value: 6,5 to 8 (values around 7 are best) Whole hardness: 6 bis 20 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  5 bis 15 dH Temperature: 16 - 26°C (the best breeding temperature 18 - 20°C)
Red Fire / Red Cherry	Scientific name: Neocaridina heteropoda var. red German name: Red Fire Zwerggarnele Origin: Taiwan Size: male: 25mm     female: 30mm pH-Value: 6 to 8 (values around 7 are best) Whole hardness: 5 bis 30 dH Cirque voucher hardness:  1 bis 15 dH Temperature: 5 - 28°C (the best breeding temperature 18 - 24°C)

Start from shrimps

With start of the shrimps one should give to himself as a rule a lot of time. A popular saying says; "the longer, the better". I make this as follows. I take empty 10 litres of bucket. There the animals with the transport water walk in. An oxygen care is important. For it I hang an Ausströmerstein in the bucket. I put this bucket then beside a chair. Then I have the second 10 litres of bucket with a regulable drain.

I fill this bucket then to 3/4 with the aquarium water where the animals should live later. Now I put the bucket on the chair, directs the drain tube upon the bucket standing under it and allows to let drip it slowly purely. This procedure lasts about 1 - 4 hours. Depending on how far one turns up the cock. If then the bucket is empty, I fish the animals with a Ketscher and put them directly in the aquarium.

What do eat shrimps?

Shrimps are as a rule omnivores with a main focus on herbal food. However, they also eat vegetables and fruit. However, this should be peeled and überbrüht.

Here a detailed feed list:

Vegetables:
Cucumber, paprika, courgette, peas, tomatoes, carrots, potato, lettuce, iceberg lettuce, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, deep-frozen sheet spinach

Fruit:
Melon, kiwi, mango, bunch of grapes

A diverse feed plan is important, finally, eat as well as not every day "noodles". Also here the saying "is valid less sometimes is more...". So always only every other day never feed and then also too much.

My animals get the following to eat:

JBL Novo Prawn	Tetra Tips - Feed tablets	TetraCrusta Menu - 4 Kinds
Shirakura Ebi Dama	Shirakura Ebi Dama "Spezial"	Shirakura Chi Ebi - Breeding feed
	Here Shirakura shrimp feed you can acquire: www.garnelenhaus.de   Moreover, my animals agree on the occasion of frost feed like "Artemia" & "Cyclops". Frost feed should not be too often fed, because they own high protein shares. Cyclops is, by the way, a very good breeding feed for shrimps, feed, however, no more than 2x per week.
1/3 Rabbits Pellets 2/3 Chinchilla Pellets

How often do I feed?

Here the saying "is valid less sometimes is more". I feed my shrimps only all two days and this very economically. My Red Bees and S/W bee's shrimps get even only all three days her food. In a well well-worn aquarium should have collected enough Mulm where the animals find her food. An example of the feed of JBL "Novo Prawn"; a grain reaches possibly for 2 - 3 full-grown shrimps. Feed what the next day still in the aquarium is, should be removed to load the water not needlessly. I use small ashtrays of glass with the masses 9x9x3cm as a trough (what I to me with Roland Blankenhaus has cribbed), I can well judge how much food my shrimps distort. Moreover, I can suck off thus the remaining feed the next day with a 6 mm wear out. If I have sometimes too many snails in the aquarium, I do not feed sometimes a whole week at all. Then my shrimps potter about in the post horn and bubbles snails. What is left of it, are the empty snail houses. I leave this, however, in the aquarium. Result: With the feed is sparing and only every other day feed.

Home-made feed

I feed my shrimps always on rabbit pellets.

Composition: 1/3 rabbits and 2/3 chinchillas Pellets

Rabbits pellets own a high straw portion by which shrimps from cellulose, Chitin can make for her tank. Chitin is also produced by foliage and moor resinous wood roots by which the tank of the shrimps becomes stable and pliable.
Without these materials can appear under circumstances Häutungsprobleme. Hence, one should always provide for enough Huminsäuren in the aquarium, e.g., by oaken foliage or beech foliage, sea almond tree sheets, moor resinous wood roots or also by peat. Nevertheless, by the regular feeding with rabbit pellets one can renounce the abovementioned methods completely, because shrimps can produce enough Chitin by rabbit pellets from cellulose.

Fertilise in the shrimp aquarium

Shrimps love close planted aquariums. Just in aquariums furnished anew it is advisable to help itself with plant fertilizer something. I use moreover "Easy Life Pro Fito" which is absolutely suited for shrimp. Unfortunately, this does not apply to all fertilizer means, because some large amounts deliver in copper and do to the shrimps huge harm or even die this.

Fertilizer suited for shrimp:
- Easy Life Pro Fito

Not of fertilizers suited for shrimp:
still no entries available

To extend this list you can send us with pleasure E-Mail, we will extend the list then.

Water change

The water change in our aquariums is from the highest meaning and may not be neglected, particularly not with the shrimps. They come because from tiling Gewässern where constantly fresh water postflows. We simulate this phenomenon with a "water change". This should be fixed according to size of the aquarium and trimming.

Here sometimes a small example:
We take 54 litres of aquarium. 10 animals provide for the trimming. Here a water change of about 20% per week should be sufficient.

I recommend cold water to take for the water change, because in the warm water copper can free itself (however, does not have to go). Best of all still the "backwater" what in the copper pipes is driven out. Of course one can also use "Wasseraufbereiter" which binds possible treacly metals like copper. I use nobody, because I have a better plant growth without Wasseraufbereiter. Care also with "Mopani" roots. These can bind treacly metals and free themselves later in the water. This was the case with me. Smaller aquariums tip faster than bigger, one should always think of it. The greater the trimming, should carry out the more often one a water change, because more "mud" collects like, E.G., removals of the animals and therefore the well-being of the animals is influenced negatively. Moreover, one reduces therefore the undesirable germs which increase in our aquariums by feed leftovers and removals terrifically. This can entail in the worst case Deadly of the animals. See moreover also The germ density hold low

Gender differences

Of both genders one can distinguish with White Pearls, Blue Pearls, Yellow Fire and Ref Fire/cherry very well. With full-grown shrimps one can distinguish them also in the size. Females are bigger and colourful.

Here you see a female. A very clear Indiez is of the "Eifleck" in the nape. Here, moreover, one also sees an ausgedähnte belly cover. This female is 2.5 cm.

Here a little man is illustrated. It is substantially smaller than the female on top. Here is absent of the Eifleck and the ausgedähnte belly cover. This animal is 2.0 cm